Travelling Kyrgyzstan with kids: Yurts, horses & snowcapped mountains. Our 2 week road trip!
- Jun 5, 2025
- 10 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
Kyrgyzstan turned out to be one of the most beautifully surprising countries we’ve ever visited! It's a place that still feels like a secret — a land of sweeping valleys, towering snow-capped peaks, and traditions as deep-rooted as the mountains themselves. For two weeks, we set off with our kids, a trusty rental car, and a thirst for adventure, winding our way through the country with no set plan, just the freedom to explore.
Self-driving gave us the freedom to roam wherever we liked — stopping for snacks, pulling over at scenic viewpoints, and turning down side roads just to see where they led. Along the way, we picked up about a dozen hitchhikers, a surprisingly common way for locals to get around. Our conversations were a cheerful mix of hand gestures, laughter, and smiles.
Kyrgyzstan with Kids - Our adventure begins in Bishkek
Our journey began in Bishkek, the capital city, where we happened to arrive on Kyrgyzstan Independence Day — the perfect introduction. The city was buzzing with life: streets lined with food stalls, music drifting through the air, amusement rides set up in the parks, and families out celebrating. The kids absolutely loved it — especially playing by the big public fountains.
Bishkek is a relatively small and easy-to-navigate city. We stayed at Apple Hostel, where the staff were incredibly helpful and made getting set up easy — including sorting us out with a local SIM card before we hit the road.
The next day, we picked up our rental car from Iron Horse Nomads. The process was seamless, and within no time we were on the road, ready to explore some of the country’s most remote and beautiful places.
From Bishkek, we set off on our road trip, heading east toward Issyk-Kul Lake — one of Kyrgyzstan’s most iconic landscapes. Surrounded by mountains, the vast, high-altitude lake stretches for over 170 kilometres, its deep blue water contrasting against the rugged terrain. Despite sitting more than 1,600 metres above sea level, it never freezes — something that feels almost impossible when you see it.
Our first night on the road was spent at Yurt Camp Tosor, along the quieter southern shore of Issyk-Kul. After a long day of driving, arriving there felt like stepping into another world. The yurt was warm, simple, and surprisingly comfortable — the perfect introduction to Kyrgyz hospitality and nomadic life.
Driving in Kyrgyzstan: What to Expect
Driving in Kyrgyzstan is an adventure in itself. Having your own car gives you the freedom to reach remote valleys and lakes, but the roads can be rough — often unsealed, with no lines or signage, especially outside the main towns.
That said, everyone drives slowly, and we always felt safe. Part of the fun was learning to read the road as we went, sometimes even guessing which side oncoming cars would choose. You’ll also see signs of change everywhere, with new roads slowly being built through the mountains.
For more tips on driving in Kyrgyzstan, you can read our full guide here.
Onward to Karakol
After enjoying the quieter south side of Issyk-Kul, we continued on to Karakol, a small city near the lake’s eastern edge. It became a practical stop to restock supplies, as supermarkets are few and far between in rural Kyrgyzstan.
For us, it was less about exploring and more about preparing for the journey ahead before heading deeper into the mountains.
Next stop: Jyrgalan
The road quickly began to feel wilder…
After stocking up in Karakol, we set off for Jyrgalan, a small village tucked deep in the mountains near the eastern border of Kyrgyzstan. As we climbed higher, the weather began to shift. Blue skies disappeared behind thick cloud, rain set in, and the peaks we’d been hoping to see slowly vanished into the mist. The temperature dropped quickly, and everything felt wilder and more remote with every turn.
Despite the cold, we were excited — and a little relieved — to find a place to stay at Jyrgalan Yurt Lodge. As we arrived, a friendly young man welcomed us and lit the fire inside our yurt. Within minutes, the yurt was warm and cosy.
We felt so well looked after, and the heated bathroom floors felt like pure luxury — especially knowing what was to come. From here on, it was outdoor toilets all the way.
That evening, with the cold and rain keeping us indoors, we spent the night chatting, reading, and playing cards around the fire. It’s incredible how warm and snug a yurt can be, even in such harsh weather. It felt like we were tucked away in our own little mountain hideaway — and before long, we were all in singlets and shorts.
Snowy Surprise & Scenic Hikes
The next morning, we woke to something magical — a fresh blanket of snow covering the entire landscape. The mist had lifted, revealing snow-dusted mountains beneath a clear blue sky. It was one of those moments that makes you stop and take it all in.
With the weather finally clear, we set out on a hike to Horse Head Rock and Kok Bel. The trail led us through alpine meadows, past striking rock formations, and out to wide open views across the valley below. Snow still clung to the ground, and the mountains seemed to stretch endlessly into the distance.
Jyrgalan is a dream for hikers, with trails winding through the mountains in every direction. Before heading out, we stopped by the small local tourist info point in a turquoise house, where we were shown maps and advice on where to explore.
Everywhere we went, the valley felt quiet and so untouched. We left Jyrgalan wishing we’d had more time.
On our way through the Kyrgyz countryside, we made a quick stop at the Seven Bulls (Jeti-Ögüz) rock formation. Towering red cliffs rise from the green valley floor, their shapes said to resemble seven bulls frozen in time.
We stopped for a picnic by the river, stretching our legs while the kids scrambled over the rocks before continuing on.
Skazka Canyon
Leaving behind the snow-covered stillness of Jyrgalan, we made our way back down through the mountains and along the southern edge of Issyk-Kul Lake. As we drove, the landscape began to shift. The alpine whites and deep greens gave way to warm reds and golds — and soon we found ourselves in one of Kyrgyzstan’s most surreal landscapes: Skazka Canyon.
The red rock of Skazka feels almost unreal. Wind and time have shaped the sandstone into strange, sculpted forms — some like castles, others like animals frozen mid-motion.
With the lake shimmering in the distance, the contrast of deep reds, bright blue sky, and water felt almost unreal.
My daughter and I hiked up a narrow, steep ridge known as the Dragon’s Back, a jagged spine rising high above the canyon floor. From the top, we could see the winding formations below and the shimmer of Issyk-Kul in the distance. It ended up being one of our favourite hikes of the trip.
Bokonbaevo: Eagles, Horses & Heritage
From Skazka, we continued west along the lake to the quiet town of Bokonbaevo. Small and unassuming, it’s known as a centre for traditional eagle hunting — a practice passed down through generations of nomadic families.
The next morning, we met an eagle hunter and learned about the deep bond between hunter and bird, and the traditions passed down through generations. We also met their hunting dogs, and the girls loved having a go at archery and riding on the horses. An experience like this can be arranged at your accomodation.
Aksai Canyon: Off the Beaten Path
That afternoon, we set out to explore Aksai Canyon, a quieter and lesser-known spot. It felt wilder than Skazka — we had the whole place to ourselves. Layered cliffs and winding paths stretched out around us, a stark contrast to the snowy landscapes we’d just come from.
South to Naryn
From the red rock landscapes of Aksai Canyon, we continued south toward Naryn, a rugged city set deep in a high valley. It became a practical stop for us to restock before heading further into the mountains.
After refuelling — both ourselves and the car — we set off again, making our way toward one of the most remote places on our journey: Tash Rabat, a 15th-century stone caravanserai near the Chinese border.
Searching for a Place to Stay
As we drove, we started to notice something unusual — no yurts. Up until now, we’d passed plenty of places to stop for the night, simple camps where we could pull in and settle easily. But this stretch of road felt different. Remote. Quiet. Empty.
The landscape opened up around us, vast and bare, with none of the usual signs of nomadic life.
With the sun starting to dip, we decided to head into the next small town and try our luck. As soon as we found a bit of reception, we opened Booking.com and spotted a single dot on the map — not much to go on, but worth a try.
It led us to a simple home, where a sweet elderly woman greeted us with a warm smile. She had rooms for rent, and we couldn’t have been more relieved.
We were given a large room with four beds piled high with thick blankets. It was basic, but warm and welcoming — exactly what we needed. Like many rural places in Kyrgyzstan, the electricity only ran for a couple of hours in the evening, but by then we’d grown used to it. That night, we tucked ourselves into our little blanket fort and slept soundly.
Winter Is Coming...Early
The next morning, we were told the temperature had dropped to -1°C overnight — winter was arriving early. The air was sharp and cold, and you could feel the seasons beginning to shift around us and were completely unprepared for it.
Before continuing on to Tash Rabat, we stopped at the At-Bashi farmers’ market — a lively, chaotic place. Alongside fruit and vegetables, locals were buying and selling sheep, cows, and horses. At one point, we watched a young couple trying to fit a sheep into the back of a tiny old car — a moment I don’t think I’ll ever forget.
Tash Rabat is a 15th-century stone caravanserai, set in a quiet, isolated valley near the Chinese border. Standing there, surrounded by mountains and silence, it felt like stepping into another world.
After exploring the ancient stone walls of Tash Rabat, we followed a narrow trail up into the mountains behind the caravanserai. It felt like we had the entire place to ourselves — just the wind, the open landscape, and the occasional glimpse of wild horses. Below us, yurts dotted the valley.
There was a quiet stillness to it all.
As we stood taking it in, something moved along the ridgeline above. A group of wild horses appeared, cresting the mountain behind us. We watched in silence as they made their way down. Then, from the opposite direction, another group emerged. The two herds noticed each other.
From each group, a single horse stepped forward and met in the middle. They stood face to face, completely still, as if in some kind of silent exchange. After a while, they returned to their groups — strangely some horses broke away, choosing to follow a different leader. Then, just like that, both groups turned and disappeared back into the mountains.
We stood there for a long time afterwards, not quite believing what we’d just seen.
On the way back down, a few horses wandered alongside us, calm and completely at ease. It was one of those rare moments that will stay with us forever — quiet, unexpected, and impossible to recreate.
A Yurt Stay to Remember
Later that afternoon, we drove a few hundred metres down the road and stopped at the second yurt camp we came across — AK-SAI. On a whim, we decided to ask, and it turned out to be our favourite stay of the whole trip.
The hostess, a warm and gentle woman, welcomed us with genuine kindness. She adored our girls, and it showed in everything she did. We were the only guests that night, and the sense of peace and stillness was something special.
The girls became completely enchanted by the groundhogs in the grassy field nearby, sitting quietly for ages, hoping to catch a glimpse of them.
I was exhausted — maybe from the altitude — but I couldn’t bring myself to rest. The beauty of the place held me there. I just wanted to take it all in, I didn't even want to blink!
We sat in the warm afternoon sun outside our yurt, watching eagles drift overhead. Every so often, wild horses would wander down from the hills to drink from the narrow stream in front of us.
That evening, the woman went out of her way to make sure we were comfortable. Knowing we had small children, she even placed a potty inside the yurt — a thoughtful gesture, especially with the toilet so far away.
She cooked us a simple homemade dinner and breakfast, and despite the language barrier, we felt a genuine connection. When it came time to leave, I didn’t want to go.
But the road was calling, and our journey continued.
Song Kul: A Wild, Snowy Adventure
The road up to Song Kul felt like driving into the clouds — winding, climbing, and getting steeper with every turn. By the time we reached the plateau, the whole world had turned white. Snow covered everything — the ground, the rocks, even the road.
More than once, we lost our way, laughing as we tried to guess where the track had disappeared.
We pulled over in the snow, stopping at a couple of yurt camps to ask about a place to stay. It didn’t take long before we found one for the night.
Our yurt was kept warm by a small stove. The next day, the kids took on the job of collecting dried cow dung from outside — the main fuel source up here. It burns surprisingly well, and no, it doesn’t smell.
They thought it was hilarious, and before long had become experts at dung collecting.
We spent our days riding horses across the frozen plains, trying our hand at archery, and watching herds move slowly through the snow. At this altitude, everything felt slower, quieter. There was nothing but us, the horses, the endless white, and the wide sky above.
Wild, simple, unforgettable.
Kyrgyzstan isn’t polished — it’s raw, real, and wildly beautiful. It challenged us in all the right ways.
It’s hard to fully put into words just how special this journey was. But if you’re dreaming of a family adventure filled with yurts, horses, and wide open landscapes, Kyrgyzstan might just be it.
For our best tips on travelling Kyrgyzstan with Kids click here
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