Khiva with Kids: Silk Road Adventures in Uzbekistan
- Jun 21, 2025
- 4 min read
Updated: May 5
Khiva with Kids: A Silk Road Fairytale in Uzbekistan
There are some places that feel like a destination… and then there are places that feel like stepping into another world.
Khiva is one of those places.
Hidden deep in the Uzbek desert, wrapped in ancient mud-brick walls, it’s a city that feels almost frozen in time — The girls absolutely fell in love with Khiva — and honestly, so did we.
But getting there? That’s part of the adventure too.
From Tashkent to the Desert
We began our Uzbekistan journey in Tashkent — a vibrant, modern capital that couldn’t have felt more different from the wild mountains of Kyrgyzstan we’d just left behind.
After arriving on a long overnight bus from Bishkek, we made our way to the Yakkasaray district using the Yandex app (a must-download in Uzbekistan). We hadn’t booked accommodation in advance, but it didn’t take long to find a comfortable room at the Moon Hotel — a perfect base for exploring the city. You can check out here if you’re planning a stay in Tashkent.
We only had a couple of days, but it was enough to get a feel for Tashkent’s unique personality. Think grand Soviet architecture, leafy boulevards, and metro stations that double as underground art galleries. The girls loved hopping between stations — and at around 20 cents a ride, it’s easily one of the cheapest (and most beautiful) ways to explore a city.
If you’re planning the same route, I’ve shared exactly how we booked our overnight bus from Bishkek to Tashkent here.
The 16-Hour Train to Khiva
From Tashkent, we boarded the overnight train to Khiva — a 16-hour journey that turned out to be way better than I expected.
We booked our tickets through the UzRailway website — definitely worth reserving ahead of time as sleeper berths can sell out quickly. We had a cozy four-berth cabin to ourselves, complete with beds, a little table, and a big window looking out across the Uzbek desert. We packed plenty of snacks for the journey (always a good idea when traveling with kids!).
The girls were instantly obsessed with their bunks, and by morning, as the sun rose over the desert, everything felt quiet and still. It didn’t feel like a long journey at all.
First Impressions of Khiva
We arrived late morning and jumped in a taxi straight to Itchan Kala — Khiva’s ancient walled city.
And honestly… Wow!
Walking through the gates feels like stepping straight into a scene from Aladdin.. Massive clay walls surround a maze of narrow alleyways, turquoise-tiled minarets, beautifully carved wooden doors, and sand-colored alleyways that glow at sunset.
Our eldest daughter immediately declared it her favourite stop on our entire overland journey from London to Byron Bay — and we couldn’t really argue.
Wandering Through a Living Museum
Khiva isn’t a place you rush. We spent 3 days, slowly wandering around the sights, the quiet, narrow alleyways and colourful markets.
Some of our favourite moments included:
Standing beneath the dazzling blue tiles of the Kalta Minor Minaret
Islam Khodja Minaret – the tallest in Khiva and one of the best spots for panoramic views (if you’re up for the climb!).
Exploring the Kunya-Ark Fortress and its intricate tilework
Walking along the city walls at sunset, when everything turns golden
But just as much as the landmarks, it was the in-between moments that made Khiva so special — they made friends with the kids playing in the streets, we enjoyed chatting to the locals and watching the rhythm of everyday life continuing inside this ancient setting.
Where We Stayed
We stayed right inside Itchan Kala at Mironshox Guest House, and honestly, we wouldn’t do it any other way.
Being able to step straight out into the old city early in the morning or late in the evening — before the day-trippers arrive — made the experience feel even more magical.
Our hosts were incredibly warm and welcoming and breakfast on the rooftop became a daily highlight — simple, peaceful, and overlooking the city as it slowly came to life.
If you’re thinking of staying here, you can check availability here.
Slow Afternoons & Rooftop Views
One of our favourite spots was the nearby Terrassa Café — perfect for long, lazy lunches.
We’d sit up on the rooftop while the girls watched life unfold below — children running through the streets, locals going about their day, the hum of a place that feels both ancient and alive.
These were the moments we’ll remember most.
Why Khiva is Perfect with Kids
Khiva surprised us.
We expected it to be beautiful — but we didn’t expect it to feel so easy with kids.
Everything is contained within the city walls, which means:
No traffic
No long distances
Plenty of space to wander freely
It felt very safe, calm, and incredibly walkable — the kind of place where kids can explore without constant stress.
For families travelling through Uzbekistan, Khiva is an absolute standout.
A Place That Stays With You
Khiva is often described as a “living museum” — but it’s also so much more than that.
It’s warm, welcoming, and full of quiet moments that stay with you long after you leave.
For us, it was love at first sight.
Next stop… Bukhara.
You can read about our time in Bukhara here.
And if you’re planning this journey yourself, I’ve shared exactly how we travelled from Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan here.
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