Yurts, horses & snowcapped mountains: Roaming Kyrgyzstan with our Little Wanderers

Kerry Purnell
Jun 5
14 min read

Updated: 6 days ago

Kyrgyzstan 🇰🇬

Kyrgyzstan turned out to be one of the most beautifully surprising countries we’ve ever visited.

From massive snow capped mountains, to red rock deserts and turquoise lakes Kyrgyzstan is a place that still feels like a secret — a land of sweeping valleys, towering snow-capped peaks, and traditions as deep-rooted as the mountains themselves. For over two weeks, we set off with our kids, a trusty rental car, and a thirst for adventure, winding our way through this remarkable country with no set plan but every intention to explore freely.

Self-driving gave us the freedom to roam where we pleased, stopping for spontaneous picnics, pausing at scenic viewpoints, and venturing down side roads just to see where they led. Along the way, we picked up about a dozen hitchhikers across the country — it seems like a common way for locals to get around. Our conversations were a cheerful mix of hand gestures, laughter, and smiles.

Bishkek - where our adventure begins

Our journey began in Bishkek, the capital city, where we happened to arrive on Kyrgyzstan Independence Day—a fantastic and festive introduction to Kyrgyzstan! The city was buzzing with life: streets lined with food stalls, music playing, amusement rides set up in the parks, and families out celebrating. Our kids absolutely loved it—especially playing by the big public fountains, enjoying the rides, and strolling through the city’s leafy parks.

The next day, we picked up our rental car from Iron Horse Nomads— we highly recommend! The staff were incredibly friendly and helpful, offering great advice for driving in Kyrgyzstan. The whole process was seamless, and having our own car gave us the freedom to explore some of the country’s most remote and breathtaking spots.

Bishkek is a relatively small and easy-to-navigate city. We stayed at Apple Hostel—also highly recommend! The staff there were absolutely amazing: super helpful, friendly, and incredibly knowledgeable about travel in Kyrgyzstan and beyond. Reception staff also helped us get a Kyrgyzstan SIM card. I was hoping to get a SIM card so we could use Apple maps on my phone as I was pretty confident we would get lost. For only $8AUD you can get a month SIM card with unlimited data and 100 mins of mobile calls! Amazing right!? Only catch is there’s no reception in 97% of the country 😂

Apple hostel is great value for money, clean and is conveniently located just a 5-minute walk from Western Bus Station (Zapadny Avtovokzal), one of the main transportation hubs in Bishkek. From there, you can catch buses, shared taxis (marshrutkas), and minibuses to a wide range of destinations, including Almaty, Kazakhstan, which makes it a convenient base if you’re continuing your journey across Central Asia. You can also travel from the Western Bus Station to places like Osh, Cholpon-Ataon Issyk-Kul Lake, Talas, and other parts of Kyrgyzstan.

Getting into the center of Bishkek from Apple Hostel is quick and easy—just a short and affordable ride with Yandex Go (the local version of Uber). Our number one tip for travelling in the Stans - GET THE YANDEX APP. It’s save so much time, money and hassle. You might not be able to download it in your home country but you can do it once you arrive. You need 2 phones to set up the app. Ask a local to help if needed.

The hostel is also within walking distance of a supermarket and a few restaurants and cafes, so it’s easy to pick up supplies or grab a bite to eat.

Whether you’re arriving from or heading to the mountains, cities, or crossing borders, Apple Hostel makes a perfect jumping-off point.

From Bishkek, we set off on our road trip across Kyrgyzstan, heading east toward the stunning Issyk-Kul Lake—one of the country’s most iconic natural landmarks. Known as the “Pearl of Central Asia,” Issyk-Kul is a vast, high-altitude lake surrounded by mountains. Despite its elevation (over 1,600 metres), it NEVER freezes!! Amazing! Because of its slightly salty mineral-rich waters.

The lake stretches for over 170 kilometres, offering breathtaking views, beach-like shorelines, and endless opportunities for adventure.

Our first night on the road was spent at Yurt Camp Tosor, located along the lake’s quieter southern shore. We pre-booked our stay on Booking.com, which was convenient and reassuring when travelling in a completely unknown country, and with kids. The camp offers the option to include dinner for an additional cost, while breakfast is always included—a welcome bonus! They’re also accommodating for dietary needs, including vegetarian meals, as long as you let them know in advance.

After a long day of driving and exploring, having a warm, home-cooked meal ready for us was a real blessing. The staff were warm and welcoming, and our traditional yurt was both cozy and comfortable—an ideal first night immersed in Kyrgyz hospitality and nomadic culture.

Driving in Kyrgyzstan: What to Expect

Driving through Kyrgyzstan is an adventure in itself. While having your own car gives you incredible flexibility to reach remote mountain valleys and scenic lake shores, the road conditions can be rough. Many of the roads are unsealed, with no lanes, no lines and no markings or signs, especially outside of the main towns and the south side of Issyk Kul. That said, there are signs of development everywhere, and it looks like significant road improvements are on the horizon— although we loved the way it was and guessing which side of the car coming towards us as going to go! Everyone drives pretty slowly so it safe. you’ll often see heavy machinery working to pave new stretches.

Driving Tips and Some Laws for Kyrgyzstan

• City speed limit 60 kph unless otherwise marked.

• Between towns 90 kph

• Any time you see a town limit sign, you must slow to 60 kph, there will not be a separate speed limit sign.

• No right turn on red.

• Police must have a video clearly showing your car going over the speed limit if they stop you for speeding.

• Typical fines are 1000-3000 som.

• Absolutely no alcohol. If you have a beer with your dinner you cannot drive.

• If ask for your passport, they mean the cars technical passport, give them the car registration documents.

• Do not show police the rental contract, while legal, it means money was involved and then they usually want some.

o Speed limits have a 10 kilometer buffer, so fines in a 40 zone should start at 50.

o Fines may arrive for 1-2 months after your trip

Onward to Karakol

After enjoying the peaceful south side of Issyk-Kul, we headed to Karakol, a small city near the lake’s eastern tip. This was a practical stop to restock supplies, as proper supermarkets are few and far between in rural Kyrgyzstan. In fact, we found that the best places to stock up on snacks and essentials were Bishkek, Karakol, and later Naryn. Outside of these towns, shops are sparse and often limited to roadside stalls or tiny kiosks with basic goods.

Karakol also makes a great base if you’re planning to explore the nearby mountains or trekking routes—but for us, it was mostly a supply stop before continuing deeper into the heart of the country.

Next stop: Jyrgalan

Into the Mountains: Jyrgalan

After stocking up on supplies in Karakol, we set off for Jyrgalan, a small village tucked deep in the mountains near the eastern border of Kyrgyzstan. As we climbed higher, the weather began to change dramatically. The blue skies vanished behind thick clouds, and rain began to fall. Soon, the mountain peaks we had hoped to glimpse were hidden behind a wall of mist, and the temperature dropped sharply.

Despite the cold, we were excited—and a little relieved—when we found a place to stay at Jyrgalan Yurt Lodge. As we arrived, a friendly young man welcomed us and lit a fire inside our yurt. Within minutes, the space transformed from chilly to toasty warm and cozy. The kids were thrilled, and we were all grateful for the comfort after a long, damp drive. Honestly it was the best! We were so well looked after and this place also had the luxury of HEATED FLOORS IN THE BATHROOM. Little did we know it would be the last toilet and bathroom we’d see for a while!

That evening, with the cold and rain keeping us indoors, we spent the night chatting, reading, and playing cards around the warm fire. It’s truly incredible how warm and snug a yurt can be, even in such harsh weather. It felt like we were tucked away in our own mountain hideaway. In fact it got so warm we we’re all in singlets and shorts

Snowy Surprise & Scenic Hikes

The next morning, we woke to something magical: a fresh blanket of snow covering the entire landscape. The mist had cleared, revealing snow-dusted mountains under a brilliant blue sky. It was absolutely breathtaking—one of those rare travel moments that makes you pause and soak it all in.

With the weather finally clear, we set out on a local hike to Horse Head Rock and Kok Bel. The trails led us through alpine meadows, past dramatic rock formations, and offered sweeping views of the valley below. The scenery was nothing short of stunning, with snow glistening on the ground and endless peaks on the horizon.

Jyrgalan is a haven for hikers and nature lovers. There are dozens of trails to explore, ranging from gentle walks to more challenging day hikes. In the village, there’s a helpful tourist info point in a turquoise house, where the staff are happy to share advice, maps, and recommendations for safe and scenic routes depending on the season and your fitness level.

Everywhere we went, the views were jaw-dropping, and the peacefulness of the valley made us want to stay longer. We loved every minute of our time in Jyrgalan—it’s a place that truly captures the wild beauty of Kyrgyzstan.

On our way through the Kyrgyz countryside, we made a quick stop at the famous Seven Bulls (Jeti-Ögüz) rock formation. These towering, rust-red cliffs rise dramatically from the green valley floor, their jagged shapes said to resemble seven mighty bulls frozen in time. Steeped in local legend and mystery, the rocks are not only a natural wonder but also a place of quiet beauty. It was the perfect spot to for a picnic lunch by the river. We stretched our legs, hiked around, soaked in the stunning views, and let the kids scramble over the nearby boulders before continuing our journey.

From Snow-Capped Peaks to Red Rock Dreams: Skazka Canyon

Leaving behind the snow-covered stillness of Jyrgalan, we made our way back down through the mountains and along the southern edge of Issyk-Kul Lake. As we drove, the landscape began to shift dramatically. The alpine whites and deep greens gave way to warm, earthy reds and golds—and soon we found ourselves in one of the most surreal places in Kyrgyzstan: Skazka Canyon, also known as Fairytale Canyon.

This striking red-rock canyon looks like it belongs on another planet. Wind and time have sculpted the sandstone into otherworldly shapes—from castles and towers to animals and mythical creatures.

The contrast between the brilliant blue sky, the rust-red earth, and the shimmering lake in the distance was just breathtaking.

My daughter and I hiked up a narrow and very steep ridge known as the Dragon’s Back, a spine of jagged rock that rises dramatically above the canyon floor. From the top, we were rewarded with glorious panoramic views over the twisting formations and the sparkling water of Issyk-Kul beyond. It was a moment of awe—and one of our favourite hikes of the trip.

Bokonbaevo: Eagles, Horses & Heritage

From Skazka, we continued west along the lake to the quiet lakeside town of Bokonbaevo. The town itself is small and peaceful, but it holds a special place in Kyrgyz culture as a hub for traditional eagle hunting—a skill that has been passed down through generations of nomadic hunters.

Tiny hands, ancient skills. Witnessing the next generation of eagle hunters keeping a timeless tradition alive

The next morning, we saw an eagle hunter, where we learned about the deep bond between hunter and eagle, the intricate training process, and the role of these birds in the region’s history. We also got to meet their traditional hunting dogs, strong and alert, bred to assist with tracking prey. The girls loved having a go at archery

The girls were especially excited to have the chance to ride the local horses. It was a hands-on, immersive experience that brought to life so many of the stories we’d heard along the way.

Aksai Canyon: Off the Beaten Path

That afternoon, we set out to explore Aksai Canyon, a lesser-known but equally impressive natural wonder. Carved into layers of ancient earth, Aksai is wilder and less visited than Skazka—offering dramatic cliffs, winding paths, and a true sense of solitude. We had the place entirely to ourselves, which made it feel like our own secret corner of Kyrgyzstan.

South to Naryn: Supplies & Surprises

From the red rock beauty of Aksai Canyon, we continued our journey southward toward Naryn, a rugged and remote city nestled in a high valley. Naryn is one of the few places in the region where you can reliably find supplies, so we made a stop to stock up on essentials—though options were limited. There were a couple of small supermarkets, a bakery, and a corner store where we grabbed bread, snacks, and simple food to keep us going.

After refueling (ourselves and the car!), we hit the road again, heading deeper into the mountains toward one of the most remote and fascinating places in Kyrgyzstan—Tash Rabat, a 15th-century stone caravanserai near the Chinese border.

Looking for a Place to Stay

As we drove, we noticed something unusual: no yurts. Up to this point, we’d been able to find plenty of yurt camps along the way—simple places where we could stop, check for space, and settle in for the night. But this stretch of road felt different. Remote. Quiet. Empty. The landscape was vast and bare, and the usual signs of nomadic life were nowhere to be seen.

With the sun dipping lower, we decided to head into the next small town and try our luck. As soon as we got a little reception, we opened Booking.com and spotted a dot on a map—not much to go on, but worth a shot. We followed the location and found ourselves at a simple home where a sweet elderly lady greeted us with a warm smile. She had a large house with rooms for rent—and we couldn’t have been more relieved!

We were given a massive room with four beds, each one piled with thick, cozy blankets. It was basic but warm, welcoming, and just what we needed. Like many rural towns in Kyrgyzstan, the electricity was limited to two hours per day, usually from 6–8 PM, but we’d grown used to that by now. That night, we tucked ourselves into our blanket fort and slept soundly.

Winter Is Coming

The next morning, we were told that the temperature had dropped to minus 1°C overnight—winter was arriving early, and fast. The mountain air was crisp and biting, and we could feel the seasons changing around us. There was a quiet urgency in the landscape, like everything was getting ready to hibernate.

Before continuing toward Tash Rabat, we made a stop at the At-Bashi farmers’ market—a lively place full of local colour. Unlike most markets we’d visited, this one wasn’t just for fruit and vegetables. Locals were buying and selling sheep, cows, and horses, I’ll never forget watching a young couple trying to put a sheep in the back of their very old small car.

bartering in the open air while children ran around and vendors sold hot tea and snacks

We wandered through the market, soaking up the atmosphere, watching the rhythms of rural Kyrgyz life play out around us.

People are incredibly welcoming in Kyrgyzstan and even more so in Tash Rabat. This place is seriously remote

Landscape is incredibly stunning.

Tash Rabat, a 15th-century stone caravanserai nestled in a lonely valley near the Chinese border — remote, timeless, and utterly awe-inspiring. Standing there, surrounded by silence and mountains, it felt like we had stumbled into another world.

Wild Horses & Quiet Magic: Our Time at Tash Rabat

After exploring the ancient stone walls of Tash Rabat, we followed a narrow trail and began hiking up the mountains behind the caravanserai. It felt like we had the entire world to ourselves—just us, the wind, and the sweeping views. Below us, yurts dotted the landscape,

The sense of isolation and wonder was overwhelming in the best way.

As we stood soaking it all in, we saw something move on the ridgeline above. A group of wild horseshad appeared, cresting the mountain behind us. We watched in silence as they moved gracefully down the mountain. Then, from another direction, a second group of wild horses emerged. The two herds noticed each other. What happened next was something I’ll remember for the rest of my life.

From each group, a single horse stepped forward, meeting the other in the middle. They stood face to face, completely still, as if in silent conversation, like they were communicating on some deep, telepathic level. After a few long moments, they returned to their groups—only for some of the horses to switch herds, choosing to follow a different leader. Then, both groups turned and disappeared into the mountains, going their separate ways.

It was unreal. A moment of pure, wild beauty, as if nature had invited us into a secret ritual. On our way back down the mountain, a few horses walked alongside us, calm and unbothered by our presence. It was one of those rare, soul-marking moments—quiet, unscripted, and absolutely unforgettable.

A Yurt Stay to Remember

Later that afternoon, we drove a few 100 meters away and stopped at the second yurt camp we passed, called AK-SAI. We decided to enquire—and it turned out to be our favourite yurt stay of the whole trip.

The hostess, a warm and gentle woman, welcomed us with such genuine kindness. She absolutely adored our girls, and her joy in hosting shone through in everything she did. We were the only guests that night, and the sense of peace and stillness was just incredible.

The girls became completely enchanted by the adorable groundhogs living in the grassy field nearby. They sat for ages, patiently and quietly, trying to catch glimpses of them. I was exhausted—perhaps from the high altitude—but I couldn’t bring myself to rest. The beauty of the place was too much. I didn’t even want to blink. I just wanted to absorb every second.

So I sat with Jason in the warm afternoon sun, just outside our yurt, watching eagles soar overhead. Every so often, a wild horse would gallop down from the hills to drink from the narrow stream in front of us. It was so still, so simple, and yet so profoundly moving.

That evening, the woman went above and beyond to make sure we were comfortable. Knowing we had small children, she even placed a potty toilet inside the yurt—a thoughtful gesture, especially since the nearest toilet was far away, and venturing out at night could be dangerous due to wild animals.

She served us a delicious homemade dinner and breakfast, and although we didn’t share a common language—she spoke Kyrgyz, and we didn’t—we formed a real connection. Smiles, gestures, and kindness did all the talking. When it came time to leave, I genuinely didn’t want to go.

But the road was calling, and the adventure continued.

Song Kul: A Wild, Snowy Adventure

The winding road up to Song Kul felt like driving into the clouds — twisting, climbing, getting steeper with every turn. By the time we reached the plateau, the whole world was white. Snow covered everything: the ground, the rocks, even the road signs, which meant we lost our way more than once, laughing as we tried to guess where the road had gone!

We pulled over in the snow asking at a couple of yurt camps for a place to stay. It didn’t take long before we found a yurt for the night.

Our cozy yurt was kept warm by the little stove. The next day the kids were in charge of collecting dried cow dung from outside (the main fuel source up here). It actually burns really well, and no, it doesn’t smell! They thought it was hilarious and soon became pros at dung collecting.

We spent the days riding horses across the frozen plains, playing archery, watching herds of animals move slowly through the snow. The air was thin and crisp — high altitude makes everything feel slower, quieter, dreamier. There was nothing but us, the horses, the endless white, and the huge sky above.

Wild, simple, unforgettable.

Kyrgyzstan isn’t polished — it’s raw and real and wildly beautiful. It challenged us in all the right ways and offered us the kind of connection that only comes when you step far outside your comfort zone — and far from the crowds.

It’s hard to put into words just how special this journey was. But if you’re dreaming of a family adventure that feels like stepping into a storybook — yurts, horses, mountains, and all — Kyrgyzstan is waiting.

Yurts, horses & snowcapped mountains: Roaming Kyrgyzstan with our Little Wanderers

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