Khiva with Kids: Silk Road Adventures in Uzbekistan
- Jun 21, 2025
- 5 min read
Khiva with Kids
There are some places that feel like a destination… and then there are places that feel like stepping into another world.
Khiva is one of those places.
Hidden deep in the Uzbek desert, wrapped in ancient mud-brick walls, it’s a city that feels almost frozen in time — The girls absolutely fell in love with Khiva — and honestly, so did we.
But getting there? That’s part of the adventure too.
From Tashkent to the Desert: The 16-Hour Train to Khiva
From Tashkent, we boarded the overnight train to Khiva — a 16-hour journey that turned out to be way better than I expected.
We booked our tickets through the UzRailway website — definitely worth reserving ahead of time as sleeper berths can sell out quickly. We had a cozy four-berth cabin to ourselves, complete with beds, a little table, and a big window looking out across the Uzbek desert. We packed plenty of snacks for the journey (always a good idea when traveling with kids!).
The girls settled straight into their little bunks and absolutely loved having their own cosy space for the night. As the train rolled deeper into the desert, we spent the evening eating dinner together, playing cards, reading books, and eventually falling asleep to the gentle rattle of the train.
In the morning, I woke early to watch the sunrise over the desert through the window, and honestly, it was one of the most peaceful moments. Soft golden light stretched across the sand as the train slowly rolled towards Khiva — Honestly, even with kids, it didn’t feel like a long journey at all.
We arrived in Khiva late in the morning, surprisingly not too tired and excited to see this ancient city.
Before leaving the station, we made one very important stop — the ticket desk.
Travel Tip! Before leaving the station, book your onward train tickets straight away — especially if you’re heading to Bukhara next like we were.
Khiva’s train station is a little outside the old town, and tickets are usually purchased with cash at the station itself. The trains to Bukhara can also sell out several days in advance, particularly sleeper trains, so buying our next tickets the moment we stepped off the overnight train saved us an extra trip back later — and meant we could properly relax and enjoy Khiva knowing the next part of the journey was already sorted.
If trains do happen to be sold out, don’t panic — you can still travel onwards by Yandex taxi or private transfer, and it takes around 8+ hours.
First Impressions of Khiva
With tickets safely tucked away in our bags, we jumped in a taxi towards Itchan Kala — Khiva’s ancient walled city.
And honestly… Wow!
Walking through the gates feels like stepping straight into a scene from Aladdin.. Massive clay walls surround a maze of narrow alleyways, turquoise-tiled minarets, beautifully carved wooden doors, and sand-colored alleyways that glow at sunset.
Our eldest daughter immediately declared it her favourite stop on our entire overland journey from London to Byron Bay — and we couldn’t really argue.
Wandering Through a Living Museum
Khiva isn’t a place you rush. We spent 3 days, slowly wandering around the sights, the quiet, narrow alleyways and colourful markets.
Some of our favourite moments included:
Standing beneath the dazzling blue tiles of the Kalta Minor Minaret
Islam Khodja Minaret – the tallest in Khiva and one of the best spots for panoramic views (if you’re up for the climb!).
Exploring the Kunya-Ark Fortress and its intricate tilework
Walking along the city walls at sunset, when everything turns golden
But just as much as the landmarks, it was the in-between moments that made Khiva so special — they made friends with the kids playing in the streets, we enjoyed chatting to the locals and watching the rhythm of everyday life continuing inside this ancient setting.
Where We Stayed
We stayed right inside Itchan Kala at Mironshox Guest House, and honestly, we wouldn’t do it any other way.
Being able to step straight out into the old city early in the morning or late in the evening — before the day-trippers arrive — made the experience feel even more magical.
Our hosts were incredibly warm and welcoming and breakfast on the rooftop became a daily highlight — simple, peaceful, and overlooking the city as it slowly came to life.
If you’re thinking of staying here, you can check availability here.
Slow Afternoons & Rooftop Views
One of our favourite spots was the nearby Terrassa Café — perfect for long, lazy lunches.
We’d sit up on the rooftop while the girls watched life unfold below — children running through the streets, locals going about their day, the hum of a place that feels both ancient and alive.
These were the moments we’ll remember most.
Why Khiva is Perfect with Kids
Khiva surprised us.
We expected it to be beautiful — but we didn’t expect it to feel so easy with kids.
Everything is contained within the city walls, which means:
No traffic
No long distances
Plenty of space to wander freely
It felt very safe, calm, and incredibly walkable — the kind of place where kids can explore without constant stress.
For families travelling through Uzbekistan, Khiva is an absolute standout.
Khiva is often described as a “living museum” — but it’s also so much more than that.
It’s warm, welcoming, and full of quiet moments that stay with you long after you leave.
For us, it was love at first sight.
Following Our Central Asia Adventure
Our overland adventure through Central Asia didn’t stop in Khiva.
If you’re planning a similar route, these posts might help you plan your own journey through Uzbekistan and beyond:
→ Read our guide to Tashkent with kids — including where we stayed, how to use the metro, and our first impressions of Uzbekistan.
→ Planning the border crossing? Here’s exactly how we travelled from Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan overland with kids.
→ Next stop: Bukhara — ancient architecture, beautiful courtyards, and some of our favourite moments in Uzbekistan.
→ Still not convinced Uzbekistan should be on your bucket list? Here are five reasons we completely fell in love with this incredible country.
→ And if you’re dreaming of even more Silk Road magic, don’t miss our guide to Samarkand — one of the most breathtaking cities we’ve ever visited.
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