Isle of Pines, New Caledonia: What to See, Where to Stay & Why we Loved It
- Kerry Purnell
- 2 days ago
- 6 min read
Updated: 14 hours ago
The Isle of Pines was hands-down one of the highlights of our New Caledonia trip. This island is seriously beautiful — crystal-clear water, incredible snorkelling, and that slow, dreamy island atmosphere that makes you instantly relax.
Travelling here on a budget can be a little tricky. Most accommodation on the Isle of Pines is high-end, with many places costing well over $1,000 a night. As we wanted to stay for four nights, we knew we needed to find something more affordable. The majority of resorts are clustered around Kuto Bay and Kanumera Bay — and while they are absolutely stunning, they were well outside our budget.
We stayed at Hotel Kodjeue, a budget to mid-range option on the north-west side of the island, not far from the airport. If you stay here, you’ll need a car, as there’s no public transport on the island. Car hire costs around $60AUD a day, which we found totally worth it — it gave us the freedom to explore the island and see everything we wanted to. We booked our car in advance to keep costs down and made everything much easier once we arrived.
Hotel Kodjeue sits right on the beach, in an area popular for diving. The bungalows themselves are a little run-down, but we honestly didn’t mind at all. We spent most of our days out exploring and snorkelling, so all we really needed was a clean, comfortable place to sleep.
Accommodation was around $250 AUD per night, and for a small extra cost we added breakfast. Breakfast was simple but lovely — fresh fruit, delicious croissants, cheese, tea and coffee — the perfect start to each day of adventure.
We had our own beachfront bungalow. It had a queen-size bed in the bedroom and two single beds in a large lounge area, which worked perfectly for our family. We absolutely loved it.
Our balcony looked straight out over the ocean, and every evening at sunset we watched loads of turtles swimming right in front of us. It was completely magical. We could swim and snorkel straight out the front of our bungalow, and those quiet moments by the water quickly became some of our favourite memories of the trip.
Kuto Bay & Kanumera Bay
Kuto Bay and Kanumera Bay are seriously stunning. These are the postcard beaches of the Isle of Pines — soft white sand, glowing turquoise water, and a calm, peaceful atmosphere.
You can snorkel straight from the shore at Kanumera Bay, where the water is shallow, clear, and incredibly calm — perfect for families with young kids. There are restaurants and resort bars open to the public, so you can sit with your feet in the sand, enjoy a long lunch, or sip a chilled glass of rosé while taking in the view.
There’s plenty for kids to do here too — playing in the sand, swimming in the gentle water, and exploring along the rocky cliff edges and natural formations of the bay.
Upi Bay
Another unforgettable experience was our day at Upi Bay, travelling on a traditional wooden boat through the bay — and it was absolutely incredible. We booked a two-hour cruise through our hotel reception. If you prefer to plan ahead, you can also pre-book similar lagoon cruises and island tours online — it’s a great way to secure a spot, especially during busier travel periods.
The water here is the most unreal shade of turquoise you can imagine, with limestone cliffs and tiny islands rising straight out of the sea. We were lucky enough to see dolphins and huge manta rays gliding through the water, which felt completely magical.
Upi Bay is sometimes nicknamed the “Halong bay” of New Caledonia, because of its beautiful rock formations. The cruise is slow, peaceful, and quiet, weaving gently through the islands. You can choose between shared or private boats, and either way, it’s 100% worth doing.
Queen Hortense Grotto
We also visited the unique Queen Hortense Grotto. Hidden inland, this natural cave is cool, dark, and slightly mysterious — a fun little adventure for kids and a great spot in the middle of the day if you need to escape the heat.
Inside the grotto is an easy to follow path through lush tropical vegetation. There a small freshwater stream, surrounded by rock walls and giant dripping stalactites. The cave is named after Queen Hortense, who is said to have once used the grotto as a place of refuge. It’s quiet, damp, and almost otherworldly, and a great place to explore. There is a small entrance fee to pay and you may need a touch at times as it gets very dark.
Piscine Naturelle d'Oro
Last — but definitely not least — was snorkelling at Piscine Naturelle d’Oro. This place is completely out of this world. It feels like swimming through a natural aquarium, carved out of coral and protected from the open ocean, with towering pine trees lining the shore.
The water here is unbelievably clear, calm, and shallow, making it perfect for kids. There are loads of fish, darting between coral formations in every colour imaginable, and because the lagoon is so well protected, the marine life is thriving.
We were lucky enough to have most of the place to ourselves, which made it feel even more special. It’s peaceful, pristine, and absolutely magical — we loved it so much that we went back multiple times.
Travel Tip: Before booking your flights check out cruiser timetable website and if you can book when no cruises are stopping there. You will have most beaches to yourself!!
What to Pack for the Isle of Pines
The Isle of Pines is relaxed, natural, and very low-key, so packing light and practical is key — especially when travelling with kids.
Snorkelling & Beach Gear
Snorkel, mask & fins (you can hire, but having your own is easier and more comfortable)
Reef-safe sunscreen (essential — the sun is strong and the reefs are protected)
Rash vests / long-sleeve swim tops for kids
Clothing
Light, breathable clothing
Swimmers (bring extra swimmers)
Sarongs
A light jumper or layer for evenings
Comfortable sandals or thongs
One pair of sneakers or walking shoes
Hat and sunglasses for everyone
Family & Practical Extras
Refillable water bottles
Small backpack or beach bag
Motion sickness tablets (if you’re prone to travel sickness bring for the ferry)
Snacks for kids (options on the island are limited)
Headtorch or small torch (handy at night in more remote areas and grotto)
Because the Isle of Pines is quite remote, it’s worth packing a few essentials with you like your kids snorkel gear and good quality sunscreen. It makes life a lot easier!
We always travel with comprehensive travel insurance too especially when exploring remote islands. It gives us peace of mind and lets us fully relax.
How to Get to the Isle of Pines
The Isle of Pines is easy to reach from Nouméa, and there are two main options: flying or taking the ferry.
By Plane
The quickest and easiest way to get to the Isle of Pines is by flying from Nouméa. Flights are short (around 30 minutes) and land at Moué Airport on the island. This is the most popular option for families, especially when travelling with kids, as it’s fast and stress-free.
By Ferry
There is also a ferry from Nouméa to the Isle of Pines, which takes around 2.5–3 hours, depending on conditions. When we looked at prices the ferry actually worked out to be more expensive than flying - so it was an easy decision to fly. The ferry can be quite rough, so it may not be ideal if you’re travelling with young children or anyone prone to seasickness.
Flying over gave us more time on the island and made the journey much easier, and the views were amazing!
Isle of Pines with Kids — Our Takeaway
The Isle of Pines is a beautiful destination for families. The calm, shallow water, easy snorkelling, gentle pace of life, and natural experiences make it a relaxed and memorable place to explore with kids. From watching turtles at sunset to swimming in natural lagoons and cruising through turquoise bays, it’s the kind of destination that creates slow, meaningful family memories. It’s super easy to drive around too. Just remember not to park under a coconut tree!! 🌴
If you’re planning a trip to the Isle of Pines, I’ve linked a few of the travel essentials we personally use and love throughout this post. Using these links helps support our travels at no extra cost to you — and allows us to keep sharing detailed, honest family travel guides like this one 🤍
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